![]() You will see the vacuum tool jar start to fill with fluid. Remember the old saying “righty tighty lefty loosey”. It doesn’t need to be turned far, ¼ of a turn is usually plenty. First pump the vacuum tool a few times to create a vacuum at the nipple (around 10 in Hg), and then turn the wrench to open the nipple. Expect to refill each reservoir several times to make sure all the old fluid is removed from the system.Īt the brake bleeding nipple, remove the rubber cover over the nipple, slip the box end wrench on, and push the vacuum hose onto the nipple. Be prepared to keep it topped off as you do the next step so that the level never gets low enough to suck air into the system. Refill the reservoir with clean fluid from your new brake fluid container. Leaving a little fluid in the reservoir is ok you will be refilling it with clean new fluid and sucking it through the lines several times so it will get removed. If the reservoir has grit in it you will want to clean this out. ![]() I put down some rags and paper towels around it just in case I would dribble a little fluid. Just put the end of the hose in the reservoir and pump the tool. The first step is to remove the cover for the brake fluid reservoir and use the vacuum tool to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir. Simple avoid touching them and the rest of the task is pain free. If the fluid is low enough in the reservoir when you release it will cause air to be sucked into the system. When open and full it will cause fluid to squirt out of the reservoir. Caution: From this point on, avoid activating the brakes when the fluid reservoir is open or low on fluid. ![]() It is best to just avoid it in the first place. At no time do you want to get air into the system as this will require that you take extra steps to remove it. The new fluid will enter at the reservoir and the old fluid will be sucked out at the brake bleeding nipple. The general concept is that you will be replacing all the fluid in the system by sucking new fluid through it. Make sure you have plenty of rags/paper towels around also, while generally it’s not too messy, even a drop of brake fluid on a painted body part can cause damage, so laying down some protection before you do work will be well worth it. You will also want to have a large container to put the old fluid into as the vacuum tool will get filled up several times during this process. The amount of new brake fluid will depend on your motorcycle, for me since I was also doing my clutch I picked up the larger quart container. Since there were two on the front system but it didn’t list the order, I searched online and found that the preference for the front is the left and then the right. Further, it stated that the order should be front brake system, then the front for the rear brake system and finally the rear brake. One was on the left front brake caliper, two on the right front brake caliper (one is linked to the rear brake), and one on the rear brake caliper. My motorcycle had four nipples for brakes and one for the clutch. It also included the specific order I needed to connect to each one of them. The service manual included how many bleeding nipples there are and where they are located. I had to remove several body panels to get access to all the locations but the steps were all listed in the owner’s manual. The clutch reservoir was located under a body panel on the left side of the bike. The rear brake reservoir was located under a body panel on the right side of the bike (many will have it on the left handle bar). My motorcycle had one reservoir on the right handle bar for the front brakes. Make sure it’s a newly opened container of fluid. You may also find the service interval for fluid replacement which is usually ever two years.įor my motorcycle, the same grade (DOT 4) and type (brake fluid) is used in brakes and clutch systems. It also includes the grade of brake fluid to use, which is a very important detail. My owner’s manual included where the fluid reservoirs are located on my motorcycle and how to fill them to the correct levels. While the owner’s manual will often list most of the information you will need to do this job, there are a few things that will not be listed there and the service manual will contain the remaining needed details.
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